A Surfer's Notes From the Andaz Maui: Cultural Respect, Ahupa'a, Five-Star Culinary Offerings, and Insane Villas

I'm not the type of person to bring wagyu beef onto an airplane, nor sushi for that matter. Yet after three days of living like a king at the Andaz Maui, I couldn't bring myself to eat airplane food. Five-star leftovers were the move when hunger hit a few hours into my flight home to San Diego.

I get the question all the time: did SURFER send you there? Yes, and more importantly, no. Expense accounts for journalists are a thing of the past. Thankfully, invites still come through the inbox, and they grant the opportunity to get out in the field and provide first-person experiences for whoever's curious enough to read through.

Here's the thing, journalism and commerce have always gone hand in hand. Like the relationship between artists and bankers, the relationship is complicated, but necessary.

So when the invite came, I couldn't resist. The icing on the cake was that my trip coincided with one of the best south swells in years, bringing pumping surf to thousands of miles of coastline, Maui included.

Meeting Kaliko

I met Kaliko Storer, the Andaz's resident cultural practitioner, at the luau on my final night. We clicked right away. She said, "You're the surfer, huh? This must have been torture for you — to be here and not be able to surf. I would have been like, ‘yeah, sorry, but I gotta go.’"

I laughed and nodded, "That's exactly what I did. I scored yesterday."

Her face lit up as I told her how I'd surfed with local legend Zack Howard the day before (full piece on him coming next week). Long story short, we had an epic session and I wore a huge set on directly on the head before getting my last ride. 

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Kaliko was born and raised in Lahaina and her whole family is from Maui. In every exchange, it was clear that the wisdom of her ancestors lives through her. I could have spent the whole dinner just listening to her. In respect for tradition, we paused our conversation when the songs began — songs telling the stories of ancestors who conquered the seas and built the largest cultural empire the world has ever known: Polynesia.

My biggest hesitation with luxury resorts in Hawai'i has always been that they so often come at the expense of the original ways of the land. You can't go back and change the course of history — the hotels aren't going away. But Kaliko embodies something you might miss at first glance, a modern warrior spirit, carrying all the knowledge and hardship of the past with a hopeful eye toward what's still possible. Collaboration is the key. Success looks like countless small acts of work and tenacity that yield results not often found in headlines.

Ahupa'a

The good news is that, through people like Kaliko, the resorts are starting to pay real homage to Native Hawaiian culture and stewardship. It's a fine line to walk, and walk is the key word (not talk). To only talk about respecting tradition is to disrespect it in an ugly way. To walk is to do it because it's the right thing, not because it's mandated, and not just for marketing.

One of the initiatives Kaliko has championed, backed by the Andaz and now adopted by other Maui resorts, is stewardship of the watershed. In Hawaiian tradition, the tending of water for sustenance and survival was called ahupa'a. Essentially, a holistic system of land management running from the mountains to the sea, treating each division as a self-sustaining ecological unit.

That's why every new Andaz hire is taken to Pu'u Kukui, the second-wettest place in the world, to witness and care for the source. It's not a corporate training exercise nor is it something they advertise. It's an exercise in fundamentals and perspective. It’s done because it’s the right thing to do. 

Ahupa'a is what allowed the Kingdom of Hawai'i to be one of the most advanced societies of pre-modern times. The islands were home to an estimated 500,000-1,000,000 people before colonization. The Royal Palace had electricity before the White House did. Hawai'i's literacy rate exceeded the mainland's by a wide margin in the 19th century.

You don't need to be a historian to appreciate any of this. You just need an open mind. Hawaiian language is more like poetry than prose. It sounds more like song than sentence. Hawaiian culture includes practices like surfing, farming, fishing, hula, and the ocean-inspired lomi lomi massage. Their art carries a primal mastery that's missing from nearly every major gallery in the world. The fire dance (which actually comes from Samoa) has inspired countless festival imitations. Honestly, I couldn't care less about watching some hippie spin fire at Burning Man (and I'm an admitted hippie). I was transfixed by the dancers on that stage. When something comes from a place of deep reverence rather than performance, it just hits different.

Property Highlights

I'm usually skeptical to hotel language about "honoring" local culture. Most of the time it shakes out to a few appropriated words and prints fluffed throughout the marketing campaigns. My experience at the Andaz, especially through Kaliko, proved they’re not like the others. The Makai Ocean Front Villas pull from Hawaii's fishing and craftsmanship traditions and feature custom furnishings, commissioned art, and finishes from people who actually live on the island. The Hema Ocean View Villas lean into Maui's agricultural side by honoring the landscape, the soil, and the long relationship between people and the ‘āina. It reads less like a theme and more like a property that took the time to do the work.

Of all the resorts in Wailea, you’d be hard-pressed to find one that delivers like the Andaz. From the lounge and living room-like feel of the lobby, to the mouthwatering meals, and multiple pool decks overlooking the beachfront spread, you can easily find yourself thinking about extending your trip as long as possible. Especially if there’s good swell. 

Nestled along Mōkapu Beach, the Andaz features 320 guestrooms including 30 villas and 35 suites, cascading outdoor pools, a full-service spa and salon, award-winning dining and quick access to a number of surf breaks.

Whether you stay in one of their grand villas (highly recommended), or one of the exceptional suites or guestrooms, you won’t have anything to worry about. The food and amenities are the kind of thing you'd expect from a five-star Maui property, and then some.

Ka'ana Kitchen — Ka’ana means to "share" in Hawaiian and that’s the spirit behind the main restaurant. The breakfast buffet hits every note you could ask for, with ocean views to match. In the evenings, the sommelier can pair your meal with one of the best wine lists in the country. 

Morimoto — the Iron Chef's outpost on property that turns out the kind of sashimi, sushi, and certified wagyu that turned me into a leftover-smuggler on the plane home. Get the Morimoto Omakase to get the chef’s full multi-course tasting menu. Trust me, you won’t regret it. Just be sure to come hungry, ideally after a surf and before some time for a nap.

Pools — are open 24 hours, which sounds gimmicky until you find yourself in one at midnight after a long day in the sun.

Highlights of what I did while I was there:

• Morning kayak — a 30-minute complimentary loop. Best way to start the day.
• Mixology course with the property's lead bartender, who walked us through a tequila tasting before getting into the secret of a world-class margarita: fresh lime juice, Cointreau (not triple sec), a dash of simple syrup, and your tequila of choice. "Your cocktail is only as good as your weakest ingredient." Watching the sunset from the pool deck with one in hand was a high point.
• Welzie art class — easily one of the more memorable parts of the trip. We were each given a foam-and-fiberglass panel and graphite paper, and got to recreate a piece from the gallery in our own style. I chose a big-wave panel and replaced the original subject (a pair of flippers about to dive under) with my own recent experience: wearing a massive set on the head the day before, surfing with Zack.
• The Thursday-night luau, which is when I met Kaliko. If you book one thing, book this. The food, the dance, the songs, its all fire..
• Lomi Lomi Massage, a traditional Hawaiian massage that mimics the rhythmic flow of the ocean. I’ll be dreaming about this one for ages. 

When I left, I packed the wagyu in foil, said a reluctant goodbye to the Andaz, and cruised to the airport. The leftovers got me through the flight. The memories of the surf, the staff, and the luau, will forever live rent-free in my mind.

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